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Undoubtedly one of the world's great cities, France's capital has a seemingly inexhaustible supply of sights and attractions, from the iconic Eiffel Tower and world-famous Louvre to the dramatically Gothic Notre Dame and the swanky shops and cafes of the Champs-Elysees. An amble within a ½-ml radius of the central hub of the Place de la Concorde with its fountains and 3,000-year-old obelisk offers monuments, museums, grand boulevards, formal gardens such as the Tuileries, superb 18th-century colonnaded mansions and a plethora of cafe terraces where one can sit and watch the world go by. And when you are tired of walking, river boats called "bateaux mouches" are a memorable way to see the city, particularly atmospheric at night. The snaking River Seine bisects the city, creating a left (Rive Gauche) and a right (Rive Droite) bank. The left (S) bank is synonymous with the arty Bohemians of the Latin Quarter, while the right (N) bank is associated with conservatism and commerce. The city is divided into 20 districts called "arrondissements" – each with its own distinct personality – and is enclosed by the "Peripherique", or ring-road motorway. 2 million people live within this area, which is only a maximum of 7½ mls across, with another 8 million in the suburbs beyond.
The incredibly efficient, frequent and reasonably priced Metro is augmented by express trains labelled RER (Reseau Express Regional), an efficient bus network, 2 suburban tramways and taxis. Several ways of securing advantageous fares are advertised at Metro stations and most tobacconists. A "carnet" of 10 Metro tickets offers significant savings. A Paris Visite pass, valid for Metro, bus and RER trains for 1, 2, 3 or 5 days, is good value. Free maps of the public-transport systems are available at Metro stations. 15,000 taxis operate in the city, with fares considerably lower than in London. A frequent bus service operates between Charles de Gaulle airport and the centre. The Eurostar terminal is situated at Gare du Nord.
Location: In N-central France, 128 mls from the sea at Le Havre. 185 mls S of Calais. 9 mls N of Orly international airport; 16 mls SW of Charles de Gaulle international airport.
Position: Straddling a loop in the River Seine at a historically convenient crossroads for trade.
Website: www.parisdigest.com
Paris Charles de Gaulle (CDG)
Flight time from the UK: 1 hr
Paris Orly (ORY)
Flight time from the UK: 1 hr
Paris is cosmopolitan and urbane, and there is something here for practically everyone; it is particularly popular for romantic weekends throughout the year. The downside is the traffic, the hustling pace of life and the prices. Paris can be reasonable – with good housekeeping, but it is easy for expenditure to spiral out of control in the main tourist areas.
Large, enticing department stores on both sides of the river include the traditional Bon Marche, the sophisticated Samaritaine and the sprawling Galeries Lafayette. Renowned fashionable shopping areas include the rue Faubourg Saint Honore, the Madeleine, the Left Bank and the Grand Boulevards. The Golden Triangle, between the Champs Elysees and the Seine, is the most prestigious area with boutiques of the most chic designer names. For trendy boutiques look in the Marais, Place des Victoires and rue Etienne Marcel; it's also worth exploring the jazzy, middlemarket Forum des Halles shopping centre and innumerable small independent shops. Many street markets and at weekends sprawling flea markets (most fairly commercial) are found at points on the Peripherique.
Daytime: sightseeing, art galleries and museums; strolling along the banks of the Seine with its beautiful bridges. A museum pass for 1, 2, 3 or 5 days allows unlimited visits to all 60 of the city's museums and monuments at reduced cost.
Nightlife: a densely packed, year-round schedule of festivals, theatre, ballet, opera, cinema and classical or pop concerts; old favourites such as the Moulin Rouge and Lido; wide choice of bars and nightclubs, mainly around St Michel, Pigalle and especially Les Halles; Bastille for music and piano bars. There is a lively club scene and music from most parts of the world can be heard. Sophisticated nightlife doesn't get going until after midnight and on Saturdays traffic jams on the boulevards are quite common at 2am.
Details about events for the week can be obtained from the Tourism and Convention Bureau. The London-based magazine, Time Out, publishes a highly informative guide to the city which is available free from the tourist office.
A bewildering range of restaurants with something to suit any taste or pocket; set menus represent particularly good value. Dinner in the evening is more of an event and correspondingly more expensive than lunch. National dishes, such as duck a l'orange and steak in Bearnaise sauce, are often found in British restaurants; for the more adventurous, there are snails and frogs' legs. Healthy eating, however, seems to have passed the French by: sauces laden with butter and cream feature heavily, and popular desserts include rich chocolate mousse, creme caramel and pungent cheeses while patisseries sell exquisite pastries, from flaky croissants to tartes aux pommes (apple tarts). The best-quality ethnic cooking comes from the French regions, N Africa and Vietnam, reflecting the city's cultural mix.
There are around 1,500 hotels of all categories, from luxurious palaces to small family-run places. Prices are generally lower than in London but one of the great luxuries in Paris is space, so unless you are in a traditional palace, a room is likely to be small for its price. Some self-catering apartments and aparthotels are featured by tour operators as an alternative to traditional hotels. Straightforward apartment buildings are usually referred to as "residences". However, some trendy small hotels include the word in their name when, in fact, they offer only normal hotel rooms.
Half day: river trips, day and night; panoramic bus tours, day and night; visits to famous cabarets. Full day: impressive Versailles chateau and gardens; Chartres; Disneyland Paris.
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